Smooze 1 5 7 – Animate Your Mouse Trap

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Do you have mice or rats in your home? If you do, you will probably want to do something to get rid of the problem. Because nobody likes a messy home covered in rat droppings and gnaw marks. Also, having rats is very dangerous as they carry harmful diseases that can even spread from their feces and urine. It simply means there's no choice when you have rats in your home except finding the most effective ways to get rid of them. Mice or rat infestations need to be taken care of as soon as possible.

This is the mouse trap that i summited like a couple of months ago and since almost 2,000 people took a look at it i thought id update the version and show off a bit of skill with texturing.

Fortunately, there is an array of options to go with such as traps, natural repellents, and home remedies. With so many options to choose from, it can be difficult to decide which one is best for you. Well, I'm not here to debate the advantages and disadvantages of different methods. This piece of writing is all about homemade mouse traps. I am a big fan of DIY and, therefore, always wanted to share some ways to make mouse taps at home.

1. To ensure that the mouse is trapped once they are on the trap, modify the trigger such that it will go off instantly when the mouse touches it even using its legs or mouth. To set it this way, straiten up the trap latch to the last point. Then tilt it back just a bit. This will set a hair-trigger on your mouse trap.
2. Mina will try to deactivate it. Use it to open a new control panel. Four letters, to be matched with four cyphers. You'll notice soon that there's only letters appearing in the word 'NAUTILUS'. So, number them: N=1 A=2 U=3 T=4 I=5 L=6 U=7 S=8. Since the 'U' is both at positions 3 and 7, both cyphers will do.

I personally prefer the idea of no-kill DIY mouse traps that don't actually harm the animals. In fact, these traps just capture the rodent so that you can release it somewhere far away from your house. So, let's discuss some amazing mouse traps that you can easily make at home:

1. DIY Bucket Mouse Trap Homemade

This is one of the simplest and effective ways to trap the rodents. However, it can be a little tricky to set up, but it gets the job done when placed properly. To make this mousetrap, you need a bucket, a coin, a cardboard paper towel or toilet paper tube, and some bait.

Bucket Mouse Trap – paper towel roll

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• Take a bucket and everything you need and keep at one place
• Take the paper towel roll and crease it flat on one side
• Take the roll and balance it on the edge of the counter with the flat side down
• Make sure one end is leaning off of the counter
• For perfect balance, place a coin to the top of the tube as it will keep it from falling off the edge
• Place bait at the end of one of the tube, the end that is leaning over the bucket
• Make sure there is a deep bucket under the opening of the tube to capture the mouse or rat

Your trap is ready now and when the rodent will crawl through the tube to get the bait, the tube will tip over. Ultimately, the tube will push the rodent down in the bucket. You can check the bucket on a frequent basis and once captured release the rodent far away from your house.

Bucket Mouse Trap – tin can rolling

If you have trouble making the first one, here's another simple way to make bucket mouse trap. You need a few items like 5-gallon bucket, dowel, tin can, peanut butter, and scrap of wood for ramp.

Start with drilling holes at the top of the bucket, on two opposite sides

• Take the tin can and drill holes in the middle of each flat side
• Take the dowel and insert it through the bucket holes and the tin can holes
• Make sure the dowel is inserted from one side and came out from the opposite one
• The tin can should be right in the middle of the bucket, at the top
• Bait the tin can with peanut butter and add a ramp for the mice to get up the bucket
• Wait for rodents to walk the ramp, get the bait and slip right into the bucket

So, you have two ways to make the bucket mouse trap. Choose whatever suits you the most and catch rats or mice quickly. You can also get rolling mouse trap of Plan Life on Amazon if you like

2. DIY Walk the Plank Mouse Trap

This is one of the most creative ways to catch the rodents. Unlike glue trap, snap trap and all other methods, walk the plank is reusable and catch multiple rodents. You will not have to install multiple traps to make your home rodent-free. To make this trap you will need plywood, glue stick, divots, driller, wood screws, solid wood, plastic, and a bucket.

Here's how to make Plank Mouse Trap Homemade

Smooze 1 5 7 – Animate Your Mouse Trap Game

• Take two pieces of plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw
• Make holes and punch pivots in a way to make a ramp for the mouse
• Drill them to make two larger holes for wood screws
• Make a tiny hole in the corner for a pivot
• Cut out the two pieces of solid wood, one as a rectangular block with a few holes into the sides and the back
• Cut out the ramp piece with bumps on either side
• Use plastic top to make the ramp more effective
• Install a magnet in the back before mounting the pivot ramp
• Mount the ramp in the bracket and screw the other half on to lock it in place
• Put a wood with a hole to make a way for mouse to get up to the ramp
• Put the right bait on the ramp with some traces on the wood itself
• The ramp will reset itself to catch more than one mouse or rat

This can be a bit challenging for you as it requires a lot of steps. As the trap is quite difficult to make, you can also buy it online. It looks exactly the video you have seen on Youtube.

3. Bottle Mouse Trap Homemade

This is probably one of the easiest DIY mouse traps. All you need is a plastic bottle, some bait, duct tape, and something slippery like Vaseline. Try to use a 1-liter bottle as it will be long and narrow. Also, make sure the bottle is transparent and made of thin plastic.

Here's how to make Bottle Mouse Trap Homemade

• Take the bottle and cut around its circumference one inch from the place where it starts to taper toward the cap
• Do not cut the top completely off as it is going to work as a door that will shut off
• Place the bottle on its side with the hinge on the table and mark two points on the side
• Mark points, one on the right side and one on the left side of the cut, approximately one centimeter from the place it has been cut
• Rotate the bottle and place symmetrical marks on the other side
• Insert two five-inch wooden skewers into the bottle and press them through the bottle from one point to the other
• Make sure that the skewers pass through the points in two parallel lines running perpendicular to the bottle's orientation
• Insert the third skewer into the end of the bottle
• Bait the end of the skewer which is inside the bottle
• Unscrew the cap and affix a string to the bottle
• Make sure the string is as long as the bottle
• Screw the cap back to the bottle with a string still partway inside
• Place rubber bands or elastic hair ties around the two skewers with the hinge on the upper side of the bottle
• Loop one band on the left side of the bottle and another on the right side
• Tie the other end of the string around the skewer out the far end
• Bait and place the trap along a wall or in an area where you suspect maximum rodent activity
• Once captured, take the rodent away from your home and release

Making a bottle mouse trap is very easy as it does not have a complex design. Also, you don't need so many things to make it.

4. Shoebox Trap DIY

Yes, you can use your show box to make a mouse trap. It is one of the simplest traps that do not require too much material. Take a thick shoebox so that mice can't chew it and escape.

Here's how to make Shoebox Mouse Trap by your self

• Take a shoe box and cut a hole out of the top
• Get a piece of paper and cut it in half
• Tape two pieces of paper to form a trap door
• Place a little bit of bait on the trapped doors
• Make sure you don't put too much bait on the papers
• Rodents will come to enjoy the bait and will fall under the box
• Take the box away from your home and release the rodent

Keep in mind that mice and rats are smart and they chew the cardboard. So check the trap frequently and empty it as soon as possible.

5. Glass Traps DIY simplest way 🙂

This is one of the simplest and cost-effective ways to catch mice and smaller rats. All you need is a glass, a coin, and the right bait. You can also take something bigger like a container if there are big rats around. However, it should be heavy enough so that the rodent can't escape.

Here's how to make it:

• Take the glass container and place it on the floor
• Bait the bottom of the glass with some rodent favorite food such as peanut butter
• Place the glass upside down but not completely
• Use a coin to prop it up at one end
• Make sure that the glass balances properly on the coin
• Once the mouse or rat will go in for the food, the coin will fall and the glass will come down
• The rodent will be trapped and you can release it away from your home

While using this trap, you may find little bit difficulty in balancing the glass on the coin. Secondly, taking the glass up with rodent inside it can be tricky.

6. Toilet Paper RollTube

This is a humanely and inexpensive method of catching mice. To make this simple trap, you need just a toilet paper, rat favorite food, and a bucket.

Here's how to make it:

• Get a toilet paper tube and form a flat sided tunnel on one side
• Put the bait on one end of the tube
• Put the tube on the edge of a table or counter with the bait on hanging side
• Get a bucket or a trash can and place it beneath the tube
• When the mouse or rat will come to get the treat, it will fall into the bucket

Making and using this trap is extremely simple but you may have to set it up again and again. Or you can hang it in a way that it does not fall into the bucket, only the rodent should.

Conclusion

When you have mice infestation, there is no shortage of traps, poisons, and repellents available. However, if you don't want to kill or hurt the tiny animal, you will have to be pretty creative. Don't worry as you can easily make the above-mentioned traps at home. These are some humanely ways to catch the rodents. Once they get captured, you can release them anywhere far away from your house.

Mouse traps can be a little expensive, especially when you need a lot of them. If this is the case, you have the option to make cheap, effective mousetraps at home with everyday items. When it comes to homemade mouse traps, those described above are the most effective. They are the easiest and cheapest ways to deal with the mice infestation. However, a severe problem may require you to buy some smart traps or get professional help.

When it comes to releasing the trapped rodents, I would suggest not releasing them near the residential area. They tend to come back and infest the residential areas again and again. Therefore, try to leave them in woody areas or forest area so that they don't infest again.

So be a little creative and get rid of those tiny, furry creatures that are damaging both your property and health…

Home » Minerals » Mohs Hardness Scale

A rapid hardness test for field and classroom use

Article by: Hobart M. King, PhD, RPG

Mohs Hardness Kit: A laboratory Mohs Hardness Scale kit containing: (1) talc; (2) gypsum; (3) calcite; (4) fluorite; (5) apatite; (6) orthoclase; (7) quartz; (8) topaz; and (9) corundum. Diamond is not included in most kits to keep the cost down. Also a diamond specimen would be so small that it would need to be mounted in a handle to be useful. Purchase a Mineral Hardness Kit.

What is Mohs Hardness Scale?

One of the most important tests for identifying mineral specimens is the Mohs Hardness Test. This test compares the resistance of a mineral to being scratched by ten reference minerals known as the Mohs Hardness Scale (see table at left). The test is useful because most specimens of a given mineral are very close to the same hardness. This makes hardness a reliable diagnostic property for most minerals.

Friedrich Mohs, a German mineralogist, developed the scale in 1812. He selected ten minerals of distinctly different hardness that ranged from a very soft mineral (talc) to a very hard mineral (diamond). With the exception of diamond, the minerals are all relatively common and easy or inexpensive to obtain.

Making Hardness Comparisons

'Hardness' is the resistance of a material to being scratched. The test is conducted by placing a sharp point of one specimen on an unmarked surface of another specimen and attempting to produce a scratch. Here are the four situations that you might observe when comparing the hardness of two specimens:

1. If Specimen A can scratch Specimen B, then Specimen A is harder than Specimen B.


2. If Specimen A does not scratch Specimen B, then Specimen B is harder than Specimen A.


3. If the two specimens are equal in hardness then they will be relatively ineffective at scratching one another. Small scratches might be produced, or it might be difficult to determine if a scratch was produced.


4. If Specimen A can be scratched by Specimen B but it cannot be scratched by Specimen C, then the hardness of Specimen A is between the hardness of Specimen B and Specimen C.

Mohs hardness test: When conducting the test, place the unknown specimen on a table top and firmly hold it in place with one hand. Then place a point of the reference specimen against a flat, unmarked surface of the unknown specimen. Press the reference specimen firmly against the unknown, and deliberately drag it across the flat surface while pressing firmly. To avoid injury, drag the known specimen away from your body and parallel to the fingers that are holding the unknown specimen.

Mohs Hardness Testing Procedure

• Begin by locating a smooth, unscratched surface for testing.


• With one hand, hold the specimen of unknown hardness firmly against a table top so that the surface to be tested is exposed and accessible. The table top supports the specimen and helps you hold it motionless for the test. (If you are doing this test at a nice desk you may want to get a thick piece of cardboard, a thick rubber pad, or a sheet of some other material to protect the surface from being scratched.)


• Hold one of the standard hardness specimens in the other hand and place a point of that specimen against the selected flat surface of the unknown specimen.


• Firmly press the point of the standard specimen against the unknown specimen, and with firm pressure, drag the point of the standard specimen across the surface of the unknown specimen.


• Examine the surface of the unknown specimen. With a finger, brush away any mineral fragments or powder that was produced. Did the test produce a scratch? Be careful not to confuse mineral powder or residue with a scratch. A scratch will be a distinct groove cut in the mineral surface, not a mark on the surface that wipes away. Use a hand lens to get a good look at what happened.


• Conduct the test a second time to confirm your results.

Mohs Hardness Testing Tips

• A list of minerals in order of hardness can be a handy reference. If you determine that a specimen has a hardness of Mohs 4, you can quickly get a list of potential minerals.


• Practice and experience will improve your abilities when doing this test. You will become faster and more confident.


• If the hardness of the unknown specimen is about 5 or less, you should be able to produce a scratch without much exertion. However, if the unknown specimen has a hardness of about 6 or greater, then producing a scratch will require some force. For those specimens, hold the unknown firmly against the table, place the standard specimen against it, press firmly with determination, then holding pressure slowly drag the standard specimen across the surface of the unknown.


• Don't be fooled by a soft standard specimen producing a mark on a hard unknown. That mark is like what a piece of chalk produces on a blackboard. It will wipe off without leaving a scratch. Wipe your finger across the tested surface. If a scratch was produced, there will be a visible groove. If marks wipe away then a scratch was not produced. Check for the scratch with a hand lens.


• Some hard materials are also very brittle. If one of your specimens is breaking or crumbling rather than scratching, you will have to be very careful while conducting the test. Testing tiny or granular specimens can be difficult.


• Some specimens contain impurities. If the results of your test are not visibly conclusive, or if the information from your test does not conform with other properties, do not hesitate to do the test again. It is possible that a small piece of quartz (or another impurity) was embedded in one of your specimens.


• Don't be wimpy! This is a very common problem. Some people casually rub one specimen back and forth against another and then look for a mark. That is not how the test is done! It is done with a single, slow, determined motion, with firm pressure, with the goal of cutting a scratch.


• Be careful! When we test we carefully hold the rock being tested so that if the pick slips it will not punch a hole in our finger.


• When we do the hardness test, we place a thick sheet of heavy cardboard or a rubber pad on our table to protect its surface from being scratched.


• This test should be done on a lab table or work bench with a durable surface or a protective covering. Don't do this type of testing on fine furniture.


• Test tiny particles or grains by placing them between two pieces of an index mineral and scraping them together. If the grains are harder than the index mineral, scratches will be produced. If the grains are softer they will smear.

Hardness of Common Objects

Some people use a few common objects for Mohs hardness testing in the field. A fingernail, a copper coin, a nail, a piece of glass, a knife blade, a steel file, a streak plate, and a piece of quartz are common objects suggested in some geology textbooks.

The idea is that a person can quickly pull these items out of a belt pack and perform a hardness test in under a minute. However, if you are going to use common items for hardness determination, it is highly recommended that you confirm the hardnesses of all items in your kit.

We checked the hardness values of 'common field kit' items suggested in three introductory geology textbooks and found some of them to be highly variable.

In summary,

The table above lists the range of hardnesses that we found in the common items suggested for field hardness testing - without doing an exhaustive search.

Mohs hardness picks: Hardness picks are easy to use. They have a brass stylus and an alloy 'pick' that is used for hardness testing. Place the sharp point of a pick on your unknown specimen and drag it across the surface. It will either produce a scratch, slide across the surface, or leave a trace of metal. They are supplied with a hardness of 2 (a plastic point), 3 (a copper point), and 4 through 9 (carefully selected alloys). They are great for testing small specimens or for testing small grains embedded in a rock. These hardness picks are available in the Geology.com store.

Hardness Picks

An alternative to using the reference minerals for testing is a set of 'hardness picks.' These picks have sharp metal points that you can use for very accurate testing. The picks allow much more control, and their sharp points can be used to test small mineral grains in a rock.

The sharp picks can be used easily and either produce a scratch if they are harder than the specimen being tested or leave behind a tiny streak of metal if they are softer. Examine the test site with a hand lens to see the results of your test.

We have used hardness picks and think that they do a great job. They are easier to use and more accurate than testing with specimens. Polarr 1 3 1 – lightweight and professional photo editor. They can be resharpened when they dull. The only downside is their price (about $80 per set).

Harder than Diamond, Softer than Talc?

Diamond is not the hardest substance known, but the materials that are harder are much more rare. Researchers have reported that wurtzite boron nitride and lonsdaleite can be harder than diamond. [1]

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It is unlikely that you will find a mineral that is softer than talc. However, a few metals are softer. Movavi photo manager 1 2 for mac free download. These include: cesium, rubidium, lithium, sodium, and potassium. You will probably never need to test their hardness. [2]

Mohs - Vickers hardness comparison: This chart compares the hardness of index minerals of the Mohs hardness scale (an integer scale) with their Vickers hardness (a continuous scale). Mohs hardness is a resistance to being scratched, while Vickers hardness is a resistance to indentation under pressure. The graph shows the great difference between the Vickers hardness of corundum and diamond - which are only one unit apart on the Mohs hardness scale.

Mohs Scale of Hardness Compared to Others

When Friedrich Mohs developed his hardness scale in 1812, very little information about mineral hardness was available. He simply selected ten minerals that varied in hardness and arbitrarily placed them on an integer scale from 1 to 10. It was a relative scale in which a mineral of unknown hardness could be tested against a group of ten index minerals to see where it positioned on the scale.

The Mohs scale has stood the test of time and has been widely used throughout the world for over 200 years - mainly because it is easy-to-do, inexpensive and people quickly understand it. Other hardness tests have been devised but none of them are in as widespread use.

A 'Mohs hardness' is a relative integer-scale comparison of 'resistance to being scratched.' Most other hardness scales use 'resistance to indentation under a stylus to which a specific amount of pressure is applied for a specific length of time.' Although these tests differ from Mohs hardness in their procedure, they are all tests of the resistance to atoms being dislodged from their positions by pressure against the surface of a mineral specimen.

One of these scales is the Vickers Hardness Scale. In the Vickers test, the size of the indentation is microscopically estimated and used to calculate a hardness value. The Vickers hardness values form a continuous scale which provides more information about the hardness of minerals when compared to the integer values of the Mohs scale. A table comparing the Mohs scale minerals to their Vickers hardness is shown here along with a graph of the data. The graph shows that in terms of Vickers hardness, the gaps between the integer values of the Mohs scale are not uniform in width. In addition the gaps between minerals of higher Mohs hardness are much broader than those between the softer minerals. In terms of Vickers hardness, diamond is enormously harder than corundum.

The best way to learn about minerals is to study with a collection of small specimens that you can handle, examine, and observe their properties. Inexpensive mineral collections are available in the Geology.com Store.

Hardness Variations in a Single Mineral

Although reference books and websites often list a single hardness for each mineral, many minerals have variable hardness. They have greater or lesser hardness depending upon the direction in which they are being scratched.

A well-known example of a mineral with variable hardness is kyanite. Kyanite frequently occurs in blade-shaped crystals. These crystals have a hardness of about 5 if they are tested parallel to the long axis of the crystal, and a hardness of about 7 if they are tested parallel to the short axis of a crystal. Why? These different directions encounter different bonding environments in the kyanite crystal. The bonds that resist scratching parallel to the long axis of the bladed crystal are weaker than those encountered when scratching across the width of the crystal. Intermediate hardnesses are encountered in other directions.

Another example is diamond. The people who cut diamonds have known about its variable hardness for hundreds of years. They know that parallel to the octahedral crystal faces, a diamond crystal is almost impossible to saw and very difficult to polish. The diamond can be broken in this direction by cleaving, and the best method for cutting it in this direction is with a laser. The softest and best direction to saw or polish a diamond crystal is parallel to its cubic crystal faces. This information is critical knowledge for the craftsmen who plan the design of a faceted diamond. Understanding it and working with it saves time, saves money and creates a better product with less waste.

Weathering can also influence the hardness of a mineral specimen. Weathering changes a mineral's composition, with the weathering product usually softer than the original material. When testing the hardness or streak or other property of a mineral, the best way to test is on a freshly broken surface with expected luster that has not been exposed to weathering.

About Hardness Tests

The hardness test developed by Friedrich Mohs was the first known test to assess resistance of a material to scratching. It is a very simple but inexact comparative test. Perhaps its simplicity has enabled it to become the most widely used hardness test.

Since the Mohs Scale was developed in 1812, many different hardness tests have been invented. These include tests by Brinell, Knoop, Rockwell, Shore and Vickers. Each of these tests uses a tiny 'indenter' that is applied to the material being tested with a carefully measured amount of force. Then the size or the depth of the indentation and the amount of force are used to calculate a hardness value.

Because each of these tests uses a different apparatus and different calculations, they can not be directly compared to one another. So if the Knoop hardness test was done, the number is usually reported as a 'Knoop hardness.' For this reason, Mohs hardness test results should also be reported as a 'Mohs hardness.'

Why are there so many different hardness tests? The type of test used is determined by the size, shape, and other characteristics of the specimens being tested. Although these tests are quite different from the Mohs test, there is some correlation between them. [2]

Hardness, Toughness, and Strength

When testing for hardness, remember that you are testing 'the resistance to scratching.' During the test, some materials might fail in other ways. They could break, deform, or crumble instead of scratching. Hard materials often break when subjected to stress. This is a lack of toughness. Other materials might deform or crumble when subjected to stress. These materials lack strength. Always keep in mind that you are testing for the resistance to being scratched. Don't be fooled by other types of failure in the specimen being tested.

Uses for Hardness Tests

Tweetbot 3 0 – popular twitter client access. The Mohs Hardness Test is almost exclusively used to determine the relative hardness of mineral specimens. This is done as part of a mineral identification procedure in the field, in a classroom, or in a laboratory when easily identified specimens are being examined or where more sophisticated tests are not available.

In industry, other hardness tests are done to determine the suitability of a material for a specific industrial process or a specific end-use application. Hardness testing is also done in manufacturing processes to confirm that hardening treatments such as annealing, tempering, work hardening, or case hardening have been done to specification.

Some Notes on Spelling

Mohs Hardness Scale is named after its inventor, Friedrich Mohs. This means that an apostrophe is not needed when typing the name of the test. 'Moh's' and 'Mohs' ' are incorrect.

Google is really smart about these names. You can even type 'Moe's Hardness Scale' as a query and Google knows to return results for 'Mohs Hardness Scale.' :-)

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